We've added this "Ask Mikey" section into the mag in response to the overwhelming amount of technical questions that we get every day. Mikey is one of the most talented mechanics we know, but it's his off-the-wall answers that amuse us. If you dare to bear his response, send your questions to atvrider@sourceinterlink.com.
Ask: My 1995 Yamaha Blaster is currently undergoing a complete overhaul. I've rebuilt the whole thing from the ground up, keeping the A-arms, shocks and swingarm stock. In the engine area, I was recently fine-tuning it and rode it. A slight noise was coming from the right crankcase. I took it apart and found out that the nut to the primary drive gear had been stripped off and had been making the noise. There's a hole in the case cover which I can handle, but should I take a die to fix the threads on the crank or buy a new crank and tear into the engine for the fifth time?
Mikey: I hope this isn't the fifth time you've torn into the engine during this build. Unless the threads are just slightly buggered up and need to be cleaned, I'd replace the crank. If it comes apart because the nut doesn't hold, you could be spending a ton of money in repairs and have to buy the crank after all. Bite the bullet and do it right.
Ask: I just purchased a very low-hour Arctic Cat 375 2x4. I changed the plug (even though it was good), put a new K&N air filter on it and every time I get it wide open it starts missing. Does anybody have similar issues? I think it may be that the main jet is clogged.
Mikey: K&N filters typically flow more air, and this is more than likely the root of your problem. More air requires additional fuel, so try a larger main jet to supply the needed fuel.
Ask: I have a 2002 Cam-Am Quest 650. Oil got in the belt-drive housing and I took it to the dealership to get it fixed. They just cleaned out the housing and put on the new belt that I provided. After riding it for about five miles, it began leaking oil out of the housing. I took it back and had it cleaned out and had new seals put in. Once I got it back and after 15 miles of riding, the oil was back again! This makes two months in the shop with nothing to show. What's causing this?
Mikey: First off, cleaning the oil does nothing unless you find and repair the source of the leak. Any mechanic should know this, and if they didn't, I wouldn't trust them to replace the seals. After a thorough cleaning, take it for a quick spin and open it back up for an inspection. Don't wait until the housing is covered in oil again before inspecting. I imagine you'll find that one of the seals is still leaking.
Ask: I recently acquired three Tao Tao China 110cc ATVs with automatic transmission, and one of them won't idle at normal speed. It idles too fast. I can't seem to find any way to adjust the idle.
Mikey: You bought what? I assume that you bought three so you'd have parts available to keep one running. There should be an idle screw located on the side of the carburetor. A slight turn of the screw should have you back in business.
Ask: I have a 2001 400EX. Every time I shut off the engine, the fuel leaks out of the bowl hose.
Is there an easy fix?
Mikey: It's an easy fix if you have basic mechanical capabilities. The float is probably sticking and not allowing the needle to properly seat. This allows the fuel to continue flowing and leak onto the floor of your garage.
Ask: After ordering an aftermarket CV joint (outer) for my Bayou, it came in but didn't fit into the old hub. I thought that the splines could be a bit twisted, so I ordered a new hub and the CV joint doesn't fit into the new hub, either.
Mikey: Since the new "aftermarket" CV joint doesn't fit the old or new hub, I'd have to say you probably have the wrong CV joint. If you must insist on buying parts, buy a factory CV joint and see if this corrects your problem.